Saturday, October 8, 2011

Absheron National Park

If you've seen a map of Azerbaijan you've probably noticed the funny little hook-shaped peninsula near Baku the goes out into the Caspian Sea. Most of that,the Absheron Peninsula, has been well protected and designated as a national park, and let me tell you it was a pleasant surprise to see those natural beaches in Azerbaijan. Our friends who live in Baku, Steve and Sandra, brought Mason and I out there recently and we were all taken by the beauty of the place. Fishing boat tied up just before sunset.
Steve, Sandra and Mason exploring the grassy hills that flowed between the peninsula's two shores.
The peninsula was full of saltwater marshes.
Towards the entrance to the park there was an old watch tower. Mason and Steve climbed up to get a better view of the sunset.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

I Want to Move to Turkey!

TURKEY!Liz Whiteman! Thank you so much for coming half way around the world to meet me in Turkey! Marie, Liz and I had the best time of our lives in Turkey! read on :)

ISTANBUL
Marie and I took the train from Bulgaria and had a day before Liz fly in from the states. We spent the extra time to explore Burgaz Ada, one of the "Kizil Adalari" or Red Islands, which we call the Prince's Islands.
We ate seafood and went swimming and simply fell in love with the quant little island. It's only 20 km from Istanbul and a short ferry ride away. No cars are allowed on the island, only horse drawn carriages and bicycles.
When Liz finally arrived we went and did the major but necessary tourist sites.
The outside of the Blue Mosque, so called for the beautifully ornate blue tile decorating the inside.
Going out in the popular "Istiklal" area that night with our new friend Justin after the four of us took in a Whirling Dervish show.
There was so much seafood in Turkey! And on the street you could get fried muscles, fried muscle sandwiches, fried sardines, muscle and rice called "dolma" the list goes on! SO TASTY
We made friends with these guys selling the fried delicacies and continued to go back to them.

TROY
I have always had a love for the stories of Troy. I finally got to be Helen of Troy in real life.
Liz and Marie were my beautiful maidens.
To visit Troy you must stay in the city of Chanakkale. That is where I introduced Liz to the perfection of fresh figs.

SELCHUK
Klaros Beach near Selchuk. You can imagine Marie, Liz and I swimming and playing in the sand and water all day. The Aegean Sea is gorgeous!
Liz couldn't get enough of those figs and bought more from this local woman selling fruit on the street.
The next day we went to the House of the Virgin Mary, as just outside of Selchuk city. The are some stories that say Mary lived out her last days here (not this house, but a house of the same shape on this exact spot).
After walking through the house and lighting a candle you could tie a note on to this wall of prayers like Liz is doing here.
From Mary's house we made our way down to Ephesus. One of the most amazing site of ancient ruins I have ever seen. Only 20% of it is uncovered for the eye to see, yet that took us 4 hours to do. Ephesus was once the second largest Roman city, next to Rome itself.
People are constantly there working on reconstructing what has been found and finding new parts.
The three of us in front of the Grand Theater.

ISTANBUL
And so we made our way west, south and back north to Istanbul with the help of Turkey's amazing bus line. We spent our one day back in Istanbul cramming lots in! Here we are inside Aya Sophia. Marie shared with us that the Statue of Liberty coud do jumping jacks inside without touching the walls, basically it was HUGE. Once a church and then a mosque, it has a lot of history to offer.
The Grand Bazaar!
Spice Bazaar!
We could not have a better time. This trip all together, Marie and I making our way from Ukraine to Turkey and then Liz coming to spend time in Turkey with me, was magical!

I'm now back in Gazakh (Qazax), Azerbaijan, going to school and doing after school clubs. Fall came in pretty fast, the temperature went from 90 degrees one day to 65 the next and it has stayed there. The new group of Peace Corps Volunteers, AZ9 (I'm AZ7), will be here this weekend! And I'm just trying to prepare myself and my friends here for the fact that I really will be leaving here in November. A lot is going on, so happy had the chance to take such an amazing and relaxing trip! Thank you Marie and Liz for making it unforgettable!

Friday, September 16, 2011

Summer Travels with Marie and Jessi

KIEV, UKRAINE
Marie and I flew from Baku to Kiev on August 26. It only took a couple hours but it definitely brought a lot of changes, including cool weather. St Sophia's Cathedral. Marie and I are in the bell tower and if you look closely you can see St Michael's Monastery over my shoulder.
St Michael's Monastery.
We just couldn't help ourselves, this girl was so adorably sweet we had to buy honey from her. She was selling it right outside of the chruch.
Entrance to the Cave Monastery Complex-you have to cover your head in Orthodox holy places.
Marie looking around in one of the many churches in the complex.

LVIV, UKRAINE
We got to Lviv by way of night train. This man, sanding just outside one of the churches, was desperately trying to convince us he had drawn these photo copied pictures himself.
Marie and I in Ploscha Rynok, one of the cities main squares.
The view from the top of the town hall building's tower in Ploscha Rynok.

BUCHAREST, ROMANIA
The train from Lviv to Bucharest was a 20 hour journey, and mostly during the day.Marie sitting by the beautiful, but dirty, fountains that start one of the main squares, Piata Unirii.
Some of the old alleyways and walk ways were filled with vendors selling this and that. I bought a hand painted picture of Mary here.
This was Andrew, our Bulgarian tour guide for the free walking tour. He was just too much fun not to share.
We also spend one of our days away from the main city in the huge Herastrau Park. We rented bikes and made our way around the lake.

PLOVDIV, BULGARIA
We had to get back on the same Moscow to Sophia, Bulgaria train we had take to Bucharest to get out and to Plovdiv. Unfortunately we weren't lucky enough to get beds this time around and spent the 11 hour night sleeping in chairs that couldn't recline. Uncomfortable then but laughable now :).Making our way to Plovdiv in the morning.
Plovdiv's old town is full of well preserved old, traditional, houses. This is the Hindliyan House, built in 1835.
The tower of the Church of St Constantine and Elena. The old town was just full of fun cobblestoned streets with something hiding around every corner.
Like this arch.
Exploring Ukraine, Romania and Bulgaria was such an amazing experience. Every city we went to and hostel we stayed in brought new friends. That was one of my favorite parts of the whole trip-simply meeting people from all over the world doing the same sort of exploring that Marie and I were doing and spending the day or evening or both with them. We had an amazing time.

Pulling into our next adventure...ISTANBUL, TURKEYStay tuned for the next blog post all about Turkey with Liz in the next couple days!

Friday, August 19, 2011

August Summer Camp Week Two

The second week of summer camp this month was a great success! Last week we just played frisbee and kick ball, this week I tried to make up a little bit more of a plan. We did play kick ball and frisbee of course. But we also did an arts and crafts station day, another PCV, Jess, came up for a day to teach some fun dancing to my kids which we then followed up with a dance competition and I did a day of gym games and relay races.
All in all it was fabulous! I had 22 kids coming some of the days! Now I'm in Gusar, another region of Azerbaijan, to do some exploring before everyone in my AZ7 group meets up in Baku for our Close of Service (COS) Conference. Then I'm off to Ukraine, Romania, Bulgaria and meeting Liz in Turkey! I can't wait!!

Monday, August 15, 2011

Trip to Tovuz

Tovuz (sounds like: Toe-vooz) is another region that is about 30 minutes south of Qazax (sounds like: Gaz-akh). The two girls I brought to GLOW camp this year, Salmi (Zeynab's daughter) and Lala, made good friends with the GLOW girls from Tovuz. So another PCV, Jess, who happens to live with one of the Tovuz girls, and I planned a little "party" for our GLOW campers to see each other again! I brought both of my girls down to Jess's village in Tovuz! It is a pretty big deal that these girls' parents let me take them down there. They are both 15 and becoming young women, making the men in their lives even more protective, plus it is not typical for Azeri people to simply make friends in other regions and then go and visit them, especially without an (Azeri) escort. So it says a great deal that Salmi and Lala's parents trusted me and felt that this trip was a good idea. We went down for lunch, took a couple walks and used fabric markers to decorate white bandanas- just a normal day in a young girls life I think. But for these girls it was a first. Next month Jess and her GLOW camper, Nurana, will hopefully be making the trip up to Zeynab's house for the same kind of little party :). Yesterday was fabulous and I feel proud that after being here for 2 years the work I am doing and the person that I am is making some sort of difference that I can actually experience through days like this one.

Friday, August 12, 2011

August Summer Camp Week One

This week was the first of two "Makeshift Summer Camps" I'm doing this month. My students had such a BLAST in June at summer camp that it made me happy and really want to do more with them this summer. This week was full of art and sports. The first day a meager 4 kids showed up but I told them to call their friends and the rest of the week I had close to 20 everyday! Next week I think I may even have more... which is not easy when you are the only teacher, but I think its awesome how many kids want to come participate. The whole week was a whirlwind of fun and exhaustion, but there was one day in particular that I will remember forever.

On Tuesday I had a group of mainly girls and I took them outside to teach them how to play frisbee. They caught on so fast and just couldn't stop laughing they were having so much fun. Something about the way they were playing took me out of my "teacher shell" I usually wear everywhere I go here and put into "normal, childlike, Jessi shell," something I think they had never fully experienced before. Being loud and silly after the age of 10 (10 is not a real cut off-but you get the idea, once you are not a small child you are a quiet, respectable adult) here is highly frowned upon, much less being loud and silly in public. You can imagine their initial shock at me acting like just another child with them while playing frisbee, but that shocked turned into pure fun. I felt a bond with the kids that were there that day that I haven't felt yet with my students here, and all we were doing was play frisbee. That day goes down in my top 5 favorite times over the past 23 months of living in Azerbaijan so I just wanted to share it.

Sorry there are no pictures! Its really hard to be a photographer when you are the sole teacher :).

Monday, August 1, 2011

GLOW 2011

Last week was Girls Leading Our World (GLOW) Camp 2011! It was a fabulous time, even better then last year! My friend and counterpart Zeynab's daughter went as well as another student of mine from Qazax. Total there were 44 Azeribaijani campers, 10 Azerbaijani trainers and on average about 10 PCV's at camp each day. It was in Gabala again but at a different "resort" with a beautiful lake we could swim in.Can you find me?! ;)
Thanks to Grandma Scott and mom for sending the glow sticks for "Disco GLOW," the gils thought they were SO cool and wore them as jewelry even after the glow went out.
On the talent show night there was a really special moment where the Azerbaijani trainers wanted to sing the Americans a song. It was in Azerbaijani and about friendship, it gets me chocked up now just thinking about it again. They brought out this Azeri flag and a picture they had drawn of an American flag and told us how much it meant to all of them that we came here to help them through a beautiful song. Everyone got up and danced along, there wasn't a dry eye in the room.
We made tie-dye and had special markers to write all over them. They girls had a blast with that. This was an awesome spot right out on the lake where we had a bonfire the last night.
GLOW Azerbaijan is a mix of doing fun, creative games, crafts and what not, normal American summer camp fun as well having an empowering theme for two work sessions and a guest speaker each day. This years themes were Leadership, Gender, Career Sacrifices of Women (in Azerbaijan) and Goal Setting. The Azeri trainers were the leaders of these sessions and a special Azeri woman was brought in as a guest speaker each day. This camp is about showing these Azeri girls that there can be more to their life then being a housewife (if they wish to do something different that is). It also just gives them an experience they may never have again-a week away from their family, in a region they may never see again, with girls their own age and the freedom and space to be absolutely themselves in. Most of these girls probably had never left their own town/village before this and unless they go to Baku sometimes (everyone seems to have family there!) they may never again. They will also live with their own family and soon their husbands family in a confined space where there is no room to be independent or individual. I hope that their time at GLOW gave them freedom, at least for a week, and that they will never forget it. I myself feel so lucky that I was able to work so closely with GLOW for the past two years. It was a major part of my Peace Corps Service and it is something I know I will never forget.

Thank you again to you all that donated money this year and/or sent supplies this year and last year. You know who you are (and so do I) and I am so grateful for your help!